The results of the EC 2021-2022 honey sampling and analysis co-ordinated action, following the From the Hives report, were concerning. This 2023 report concluded that all 10 of the sampled honeys imported from the UK were “suspicious”.
This finding prompted further investigation by the UK Department of Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra).
Defra have now published an independent expert review into the analytical methods used in the survey. There is a lot of technical content in the review. It re-emphasises that no single honey authenticity test is likely to be definitive, and that a weight of evidence approach should be used with some tests being weighted higher than others. When the total weight of evidence is not strong then phrasing such as “warrants further investigation” would be a fairer conclusion than “suspicious”.
One specific learning from the review is that laboratories must take care with the selection of authenticity markers, depending on the analytical question being asked. The example given is oligosaccharides. Some of these markers are known to vary between honey that has had moisture mechanically removed compared to honey that has not. Moisture removal may be a production necessity (in humid climates where honey will not evaporate naturally) or a commercial choice to speed the harvest cycle (as is commonly used in China). Moisture-removed honey is common within UK blends of Chinese origin honeys but is not permitted in some EU countries. Thus a test based on oligosaccharide markers could differentiate UK honey from EU for reasons that are already understood. It might not provide any new insight, for example, on sugar or syrup adulteration.
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